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12/01 Friday
3:00 p.m
Gucci
Sabato de Sarno presented us with his first menswear show at Gucci. After the era of Alessandro Michele, which was characterized by eye-catching patchwork designs, we are now experiencing luxurious sexiness. The collection radiates elegance and restraint, with accessories in particular being in the foreground: fascinating folding bags, necklaces, gloves and ties play an important role.
The garments, especially the coats, showcase exciting fabrics. The silhouettes remain oversized, but there is a trend towards tighter-fitting clothing, especially when it comes to trousers. In terms of color, the collection offers a varied mix of bright and dark tones that draw parallels to Alessandro Michele's debut show.
The new Gucci fits perfectly into the upcoming minimalist fashion world. Gucci is getting sexy again, and that's something to look forward to. Although the show may not yet represent a final position, as Sabato de Sarno probably did not design the collection entirely on his own and Alessandro definitely still had an influence. Nevertheless, the direction in which Gucci is heading can be seen.
8:00 p.m
Dsquared2
Last year, Dsquared2's spring/summer show nailed the Y2K trend. There was a lot of excitement before this year's show: what direction will Dsquared2 take now that the Y2K trend is apparently over? Will they continue to adhere to this trend and perhaps fade into obscurity faster than they appeared?
The new show presents the first case, and in a unique way: models walk through a "transformer" in dirty, old vintage clothes and then appear in a super stylish outfit. The show is fun to watch and is really well directed.
The "dirty" looks represent the Dsquared2 Y2K look, but it seems more adapted. More experimental and not as easily solved as before. The "clean" looks show us retro classics with a hidden eroticism and coolness. They fit well into the overall picture. The style is chic but retro/Y2K. Overall, the show is excellently designed.
The transforming twist makes the presentation exciting to watch. The show also had a lot to offer in terms of outfits: we get an insight into how Dsquared2 can adapt without losing their own touch.
13/01 Saturday
14:00 clock
Fendi
The latest Spring Menswear Collection by Silvia Venturini Fendi was described as an exciting collection. The newly opened Fendi leather factory outside Florence provided the setting for this opening, which gave the show a special touch. Six months later, the menswear show is taking part in Milan Fashion Week again.
The collection, consisting of 57 looks, appears at first glance to be in keeping with the spirit of the times. Minimalist designs, coats, wool and the occasional leather jacket. In terms of color, many brown tones dominate, the new trend blue and burgundy red, the color that we will probably see more often next autumn.
But there are only a few exciters in this show. An example is the corduroy leather jacket as the final look or the pink and red leather jackets interspersed in the middle that bring back memories of the Prada leather bomber jacket.
Overall, a successful collection, but it fits with Silvia Venturini Fendi's source of inspiration, namely nothing. Silvia Venturini explained that her design path goes from collection to collection and does not take direct inspiration from external sources. And this shows – it is a consumer-friendly collection without much wow.
7:00 p.m
Emporio Armani
"You don't have to change yourself if everyone else just changes in your direction." This sentence aptly sums up the new Armani show. The presentation shows the development of the brand under the leadership of the Italian designer. The incredible 114 looks look familiar, but still exciting.
The collection tells several stories one after the other, resulting in a fascinating clash of inspirations. The first story is about sailors and women. Sailing looks pass us by that give off a retro Armani vibe. Nevertheless, all looks seem wearable in today's world.
The blue sailor look then becomes more and more gray until we finally have a gray-beige transition phase, which ultimately leads us to the white ski looks. The theme is of course perfect for a fall/winter show, and Giorgio manages to combine the vintage and modern ski scene perfectly.
The white looks get darker and darker until we only have black suit looks. These then transform into even more extremes and are combined with a leather wardrobe.
The extreme decays again, the colors become brighter, and the stars appear in the darkness. Suddenly more and more ice crystals appear on the black suit wardrobe until the final look is completely covered by these crystals.
In the end, all I can say is that this collection is fantastic. Giorgio presents us with an exciting journey through his career and manages to tell this journey through wearable, consumer-friendly garments.
14/01 Sunday
10:00 a.m
Simon Cracker
The press release for the new fall/winter collection by Simone Botte and Filippo LM states: 'The world is hectic, there is too much noise, this time we decided to convey a different state of mind.'" Revolution through sleep is the motto of the two young Italian designers. The collection is inspired by the moment just before falling asleep.
The looks reflect this feeling. The color palette is characterized by matt and pastel pink and purple tones, combined with dark gray and brown tones. The music seems calm, with a touch of punk. The models walk relaxed and slowly. All of this gives the show the perfect setting for the enchanting feeling just before entering the dream world. When the single pearl, the moon, blurs and you suddenly see an infinite number of them. When the silhouettes melt. When wonderful color mixtures arise in your head.
Simon Cracker shows us this moment, using upcycled looks to give new life to the clothes lying dormant. However, the brand also makes it clear that this process was not decided for trend-oriented reasons, but rather for ethical reasons. Overall, it's an exciting collection that offers viewers some peace and refuge after a stressful week of Fashion Week. We are excited to see where this young label goes.
4:00 p.m
Prada
The business world meets nature - a thought you can only dream of. Prada shows us what it would look like if capitalism's poster boy met its greatest victim.
The setting, as usual, reflects an office space. But this is on natural soil. Office chairs and desks stand in a forest meadow, separated only by a pane of glass. Capitalism looking from the top down is clearly reflected here. The setting is perfect, and the irony becomes even more pronounced when watching the live stream: influencers who only come into contact with nature when there is a pane of glass in between.
But apart from the incredibly well-done setting, that's about it for the excitement of this collection. The looks don't really seem interesting. We see Prada with the successful color combinations and the recognizable silhouette. But what this collection lacks are the details, the playfulness. Especially with such an exciting symbiosis, swimming caps as headgear (which, by the way, will definitely be trendy in 2024) are not enough to make this show more exciting. We're not offered anything new in terms of silhouettes, we're not offered anything new in terms of colors, and the few accessories aren't enough.
So it can be said: The show is by no means bad, but in no way more than a B-. After this collection you can really question whether you really need a new collection every season when every other one is boring. The disappointment over this failed collection becomes even greater when you think of Raf and Miuccia's deserved nomination as Best Fashion Designers 2023.
